I turned 36 yesterday, which made it a good day to go body surfing. I had an idea I was pretty decent at body surfing. My cousin Laurie used to take my sister and me to the beach when we visited L.A. She showed us how to dive under the waves so they wouldn’t pummel us, and that’s what I did, over and over, thrilled each time at having carried off this trick of survival. The waves rolled up big and fast, but with an orderliness that suited me. Once, a second wave hit right on the heels of the first, after my head popped up but before I had time to reassemble myself into optimum diving position. And then, boy, I wrestled with death. I got tossed. I got water up my nose. I could hardly believe it. I had never been handled so roughly. I staggered to my feet in the queer meringue landscape of white water. I wanted to cry or at least tell someone, but my sister and cousin were far away practicing their own moves.
My mood was grave. I felt tricked. Until now, the ocean had given me no more than I could handle. Like a stern but encouraging mother, she had challenged but never humiliated me. But now I was humiliated, and at the core of it was a new sort of loneliness. I understood that bad things sometimes happened to me because other people were mean, and I knew that I didn’t always get what I wanted because sometimes another person’s desires, usually an adult’s, conflicted with my own. I might be baffled or hurt by the agency of others, but I understood it as agency. I wanted this, they wanted that, and those desires either matched or they didn’t. What I wanted at that moment was to think of the ocean as mean, but I just couldn’t. The idea and the rejection of the idea came at the same time. How childish, I thought. But if the ocean wasn’t a bully, what was it? What did it want?
The terrible truth dawned that the ocean had punished me and did not even know it. It hadn’t intended anything by it. It didn’t want anything. And it wasn’t just indifferent to me. I looked for my sister and my cousin, and at the other kids playing and the people sunbathing. We could all just die. Mommy Nature does not care at all.
So, yeah, I totally remember the first time I went body surfing. The next time, twenty years later, my friend Cass taught me you are supposed to ride the waves, not just dive under them. We were in Costa Rica on a black sand beach. The water was warm. We bobbed and waited and laughed at our bad synchronized swimming moves. I only caught about three waves, but everything about that vacation felt joyful and easy. Sure, we got a weird puckery sun rash and uncontrollable diarrhea and I flipped my kayak and lost my water bottle and sunglasses, but we also drank rum out of a coconut and camped in a jungle and snorkeled around a rock island where the fish had all entered the Glorious Rainbow Beauty Competition.
Yesterday morning dawned sunny and warm and un-windy, almost like we were in L.A. J and I didn’t exactly make the dawn patrol, but we made the 9am patrol, good enough for an old lady. The warm weather was a fake out, because the water was 51 degrees, but I was wearing a wetsuit. That suit is the closest thing to the many magic flying/invisibility/underwater breathing/impervious to fire/impervious to poisoned animal fangs suits I wore as a kid. It had a hood and booties, and after thirty minutes in death-water I was not cold at all. It was so amazing I felt some of my old survival-vanity returning. Ha on you, Mommy Nature! You same Nature who gave me long purple feet and hay fever and above-average athletic zeal but below-average hand-eye coordination — watch me! I swim! I dive!
But you know those waves that look like sweet migrating turtles from the shore? Sort of humped and low and even? It turns out they are kind of messy and scary when you’re in the water. So irregular! Heaving weirdly, breaking early, breaking late. I caught not a single one. I only even got myself into position twice, and then I was too slow and got left behind, dropped pathetically behind, like a person the bus driver kicks off the bus because, hey, lady, this is the end of the line, even though you’re sure you never passed your stop and where the heck are you and yikes that wasn’t even the right bus.
Still, I was happy and tired and pushing back out through the heavy froth to try one last time, when a wave broke right in my face. I must have looked surprised. I certainly had my eyes open. The water slapped my eyeballs. It kind of hurt. I wanted to tell J, but he was off practicing his own moves, or at least I thought he was, it might have been him, or a sea lion, or that woman surfer with the nose ring, or Aqua Boy, or Moby Dick, because Nature gave me bad eyesight, and then she knocked my contacts out.
Which, well, turning 36 is like getting hit in the face. There are the little smacks, the creasing and de-gleaming, the jerk mirror, once your most reliable informant, now possibly turned against you by the criminal element. And then there’s the brutal strike of the day itself: Lady, the year is gone! You did not do this. You did not do that. The granary is depleted. You are eating through your stores.
Yeah, but I wore the magic suit. I braved the cold. I felt small and weak. I felt rubbery and large. Briefly I was blind. I got coffee in bed. I ate strawberry pie. I was afraid of the riptide. I was afraid of sharks. I wasn’t that afraid. I read six X-Factor comics. I ate peach and arugula salad. It’s the summer, baby. It’s California, baby. I’m alive.

